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Afaria is a French bistro worthy of attention that just
opened up in September of this year (2007). The name
originates from a word of the Basque region (souper =
supper). The owner/chef, Julien Duboué (who is, of course,
from the Basque region) is still only 26 years old! His
fresh talent has helped the restaurant gain some fame,
having been introduced in several magazines less than three
months after opening. He gained a great deal of experience
working under chef Alain Dutournier at the Michelin 2 star
restaurant Carré des Feuillants, as well as at other well
known restaurants like Drouant and Le Cinq, before finally
opening his own place.
It is located in the 15th district, which has a sort of
working class atmosphere and many supermarkets and
ready-to-eat food shops. Afaria is situated between the
Convention and Porte de Versailles
(where the International Trade Fair grounds are) Metro
stations. It’s not a neighborhood that travelers tend to be
very familiar with, but it is a spot to pay attention to
because recently the number of Neo-Bistros drawing Parisians
to the area has been increasing.
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The large window that faces the street lets a lot of
bright sunlight into the restaurant, giving it an
ambience that is very easy to walk into. The wooden
chairs and tables, as well as the tablecloths made
of fabric from the Basque region, make for a simple
space that doesn’t feel stuck up, where you can
relax. As for the food, it's all original items that
will fill you with a fresh sense of wonder. There
are three themed menus, and each comes with an
appetizer, an entrée, and a
dessert. Les Sudistes is food from the south of
France associated with the chef’s birthplace. Le
retour de voyage uses ingredients and spices from
many different nations, giving it a rich
international character. Les petits appétits (small
appetites) is a healthy selection that centers on
vegetables and seafood. Of course, they offer
everything a la carte at night, but even at lunch
time you can pass on these three themes and order a
combination of whatever appetizer,
entrée, and dessert you like. There's also
the Les plats à partager theme menu, which can be
shared amongst two or more people. The menu’s
contents change with each season.
This time around, my order was for the appetizer
from the Les petis appétits menu, the scallop and
artichoke tartar, and pumpkin soup (3rd photo). My
entrée (1st photo) was the
roasted fish, in a Thai style bouillon, with
lemongrass rice on the side from the Le retour de
voyage menu. Finally, dessert (bottom left photo)
was a warm tiramisu with Amarena cherries. The
appetizer’s tartar and soup were served separately
so I could try the scallops on there own. Then, you
pour the piping hot soup over them yourself and
lightly mix it together, which is an enjoyable trick
to give the scallops a whole new texture. The
crisply roasted fish of the entrée and the smell of the Thai curry was a
perfect match, while the crunch of the raw bean
sprouts was exquisite. The tiramisu was pure white,
and then dressed up like a cappuccino, with a slight
warmth to it, and a taste that shattered my previous
expectations. All of the food was beautifully
presented, and an amazing marriage of taste and
texture! The rum baba (last photo), or the Magret de
Canard (breast of fattened duck, 5th photo) served
on smoked chips, are the kind of ideas this young
chef has that will move you. It’s also fine to enjoy
some of the substantial Basque style tapas, or some
cured ham, while just drinking wine. You can even
get the tapas as take-out.
If you go for lunch right when they open at noon,
it’s very likely you can get seating for 2-3 people
with no reservation, but because it’s already become
a popular restaurant we highly recommend you make
one for dinner.(2008-01-10)
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Afaria |
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15 rue Desnouettes 75015 |
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Area: Montparnasse |
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Tel : 01 48 56 15 36 |
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Metro : |
Convention Line 12,
then a 3 minute walk |
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Open : |
12:00-14:00 / 19:00-23:00 |
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Close : |
Mondays at lunchtime, Sundays |
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Budget : |
Lunch
2 Items €22
3 Items €26
Daily Special
1 Item €16
Dinner is a la carte only
Appetizers €10 and up Entrees €16 and up
Dessert €6 and up
Tapas €4 and up |
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Credit card: |
Visa, Mastercard, Diners Club |
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